Coddiwompling Wanderer

There’s a place in central Texas that will transport you to another world—a quieter world—where birds chirp flirtatiously, bees buzz busily, and brooks babble sweet lullabies; where all you see for miles are prairies painted in greens and golds, and in the springtime, fields dancing with brilliant Bluebonnets and blazing Indian Blanket.

This magical otherworld, with hills that gradually roll and dip into a distant phantom sea, is called Doeskin Ranch and is located within Balcones Canyonlands National Refuge in Bertram, TX—approximately one hour from Austin.

The refuge was established in 1991 for the purpose of preserving habitat for endangered species, and as of 2019 it spans about 27,500 acres. It is recognized as an internationally important Bird Area, harboring 245 bird species for part or all of the year, including two endangered species: the black-capped vireo and the golden-cheeked warbler.

In 2005, Doeskin Ranch was designated as a national recreation trail, which treats the public to an impressive display of flora and fauna. You’ll see bright-colored wildflowers and shimmering grasses, prickly pear cacti gardens, and vibrant flowering shrubs. 

You may encounter deer, coyote, beavers, foxes, feral pigs, and bobcats. And thousands of monarchs pass through the area during their spring and fall migrations. 

A few things to note about the trail:

• The small parking lot fills quickly on weekends, so if you’re going with a group, you may want to consider carpooling. 
• Pets are not allowed on the trails.
• Public restrooms are located at the trailhead.
• You can grab a trail map from the information post, which provides five miles of trails to choose from:
• Pond and Prairie: 0.4 mile loop follows alongside a small pond—easy
• Creek Trail:  0.5 mile loop follows alongside a creek and through an old oak forest, provides shade—easy
• Rimrock Trail:  2.2 mile loop takes you up to the top of the plateau where you will find spectacular panoramic views—moderate
• Indiangrass Trail: 1.5 mile loop at the top of the plateau and follows alongside beautiful sun-kissed prairies dotted with wildflowers in spring— moderate
• Shin Oak Trail: 0.5 mile loop alongside a small pond—moderate

All the loops are conveniently connected. If you’d like to do a long stretch of connected loops, you can start along Rimrock, veer right onto Shin Oak, and continue up to Indiangrass. This approximately 2-hour hike includes a rocky, rigorous, and steep climb up to the plateau, shady overlooks with benches to rest along the way, two creek crossings, and commanding views of Texas hill country.

Now that Springtime is here, there is no better time to visit this far away yet not so far away land for a spectacular viewing of stunning wildflowers, and maybe even catch a glimpse of an elusive and rare songbird.

Happy trailing!

Directions to Doeskin Ranch

“Why name a road ‘Nameless’ when there are so many other options?” my partner questioned as we studied a map of Leander, Texas. “Yeah, seems a bit lazy-brained,” I replied.

Turns out, I was wrong. 

In the late 1800s residents of a small community along Sandy Creek applied for a post office and submitted six different names^* to be considered. Each name was rejected. In frustration the residents declared “Let the post office be nameless and be damned!” And so “Nameless” was born.

By 1884, the town of Nameless comprised 50 people and included a post office, a general store, a meat market, a cemetery, and a school that also served as a church. But by 1890 growth had slowed, and just a decade after the town’s naming day, the post office closed. Soon after, the area became derelict and many of the buildings were torn down. What’s left of the community’s settlement is the Nameless School House (erected in 1909), the cemetery, and its namesake road.

If you happen to live in the Austin, TX area and haven’t taken a ride along Nameless Road, it’s worth a Sunday excursion. A leisurely drive, it offers up views of rolling country hills with grazing cows and horses, golden fields of sun-kissed grass, stunning wildflowers in the spring, and a feeling that time has stood still for decades. 

^* Sadly, the six names that were submitted have been lost to time.

“What in the world?” I thought out loud, as my eyes caught bright patches of color peeking out from behind a cluster of trees.

Intrigued, I park my car, grabbed my Nikon, and walked around a bend to the other side of the thicket, where I was greeted by the abandoned bones of a 3-story building literally crawling with people of all ages, gender, and color. I watched in awe as they climbed, clambered, and spray painted the old walls.

Standing proudly at the skeleton’s core was a sign, accessorized with a dangling crystal chandelier, which announced “Hope Outdoor Gallery.” 

Both amazed and bemused, I walked the full parameter to take in the scene. As I gazed upward towards what appeared to be a castle’s turret atop the old structure, I witnessed a young person bringing to life a gorgeous Japanese-inspired serpent of a creature—its long, luminescent green and purple scaly torso elegantly gliding along with both purpose and power. 

I strolled further into the labyrinth, weaving in and out and through its small corners and pockets. At each juncture I discovered a new piece of art. When I’d turn back to where I was just moments ago, the art had changed: an engraving, which read “LOVE,” had magically transformed from multi-tie-dye colors to the brilliant color of gold, and a dazzling ocean scene had morphed into a beautiful blue eye of a women, silently watching the art around her shift, change, move, and speak.

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This unique art space is the brainchild of a local nonprofit named “HOPE,” which supports social causes through art and creativity. HOPE renovated and launched the space, aka Graffiti Park, in 2011 to the public to be used for spray- and mural-painting.

Once an urban photographer’s dream, now a virtual reality, the park closed on January 2, 2019. The plans are to add a new space for HOPE Gallery at Carson Creek, across from Austin-Bergstrom International Airport, in 2020.